WW1 / WW2 / 20th Century

The Spectacular, Elizabeth Taylor, 'Million Dollar' Gold, Diamond And Ruby Rolex 'Mystery' Watch, With a Diamond & Ruby Bracelet. Described As, Probably, The Most Spectacular, Beautiful and Unique Rolex Watch in the World

What an incredible idea for a special occasion.
A unique, bespoke, Rolex ‘mystery’ watch, probably one of the most spectacular ‘statement watches’ ever to be seen anywhere in the world today, that once belonged to one of the greatest movie legends of them all, Elizabeth Taylor.

The concealed Rolex watch movement is hidden within the spectacular, gold diamond and ruby set 'belt and buckle' bracelet, and when worn, the watch movement is entirely concealed, and hidden, and can be viewed by simply lifting the end of the belt tab.
The current cost of a 1970's Bulgari Serpenti 'Mystery' Watch, available on the market today, is anything up to £170,000. But the fabulous Bulgari mystery watches hold not a candle to this simply unique and exquisite piece..

This extraordinary watch is as close to a Million Pound watch as you can get. Its provenance is as follows;

In the middle of October 1970, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton arrived in Brighton for the location filming of Burton's latest film, Villain. During the filming they toured The Lanes in Brighton and visited our shop in Prince Albert St, in order to discuss with David Hawkins snr, the purchase of a mansion David had recently bought in Hove. During their hour long visit to our store some extraordinary business was transacted, between Elizabeth and Camilla Hawkins, Mark and David's mother, and wife of their father David snr. Camilla bought from Elizabeth, this most spectacular custom made, Rolex movement, gold and diamond bracelet 'mystery' watch that Richard had somewhat recently bought for Elizabeth.

It was the culmination of a conversation that Elizabeth had with David and Camilla concerning the purchase of a Hove mansion, that David and Camilla owned in Hove, that Michael Wilding {a very famous British actor and another former husband of Elizabeth Taylor} was attempting to buy from David Hawkins snr, for Michael Wilding's 'other' ex wife, Susan Wilding. Elizabeth had been asked by Michael to intercede on his behalf, and convince David to sell the Hove mansion to Michael, that, so far, he had thus refused to do.

That most curious conversation, and negotiation, obliquely developed into an entirely disconnected heated discussion between Elizabeth and Richard, concerning a ring that Elizabeth had seen in a neighbouring jewellers in the Brighton Lanes that very day, and that Elizabeth was determined to buy for herself. However, Richard had ‘forbade’ her from buying it. He strongly protested, and loudly argued, that he was the only one allowed to buy her Jewellery, and Elizabeth, took great exception to this affront to her status and independence. Bearing in mind, Elizabeth had, and always was, paid far more for her performances than Richard was for his. Richard’s talent and fame was world renown, but Elizabeth’s fame and status was positively stratospheric. This was the uncomfortable element to their relationship, that Richard never truly overcame.

In high dudgeon, to his unwanted rebuke, Elizabeth removed this fabulous Rolex watch from her wrist, and immediately offered it for sale, and duly sold it, to Camilla, most likely, simply in order to frustrate, anger and annoy Richard, and very possibly to also demonstrate her indifference of his opinions and wishes. which it certainly did. So, the upshot was, Camilla gained this magnificent watch that October, from Elizabeth, and subsequently, just a few years later, gave it to Mark her son as a wedding present, in May 1978.

Mark { the elder partner of The Lanes Armoury} was in fact present in the shop when the entire argument between Elizabeth and Richard took place, and thus personally witnessed exactly how the watch was offered and purchased from Elizabeth, within the shop, on that grey but significantly eventful October day in 1970.
It was, he says,
"certainly one of the most curious, momentous and unforgettable days I had ever experienced in the shop during the past 50 plus years".
It is certainly not every day one is personally witness to two of the most famous and talented movie stars in the world, having a full blown, somewhat high decibel, hour long marital discourse, within just a few feet.

Bearing in mind Elizabeth and Richard were true, original ‘superstars’ in the truest sense of the word. No celebrities today could even touch the fame that those two fabulous actors enjoyed in their day.

Dame Elizabeth Taylor had another, very similar quality diamond and gold 'Mystery' watch, and she was indeed photographed wearing it on the set of Cleopatra in 1962 {see the gallery photos}. It was a serpent 'mystery' watch with a very similar watch movement encased and hidden within the head of a diamond and gold coiled snake, acting as its bracelet, made by Bulgari. That watch was sold in December 2011 for over $974,500, however it did have the benefit of a photograph of Elizabeth wearing it, and so far we have never found a photograph of Elizabeth wearing our far superior example.
It is said that to custom hand-make and replicate this unique, finest quality gold, diamond and ruby bracelet watch, with the manual 'fold-out' movement by Rolex, would likely cost over a million dollars today.
Over the past near 40 years we have combed the world of photographs of Elizabeth Taylor to find her wearing it, sadly without success, and when she created her magnificent book on her world famous jewel collection, as it was thirty years after this magnificent Rolex had been sold to Camilla.

A photo in the gallery is of Richard and Elizabeth arriving at Brighton Station on the 16th October 1970, and she may well have been wearing it then, but her arms are obscured by her jaguar print pant suit. We also show views from her famous jewel collection book,' Elizabeth Taylor, My Love Affair With Jewellery' published in 2002, that we also include with the watch. The watch is being sold in part to benefit Mark and Judy's {Mark's beloved late wife} favourite charities, the National Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Children, and The Guide Dogs for The Blind Association.
10.5 inches long x 1.4 inches wide at the buckle, 130.8 grams. Bears Swiss .750 hallmark, set with 24 diamonds and 40 rubies. There was once a small personal calling card with it from Elizabeth that doubled as it's receipt, but sadly it was lost many decades ago.

After meeting on the set of Cleopatra in the early '60s, actress Elizabeth Taylor (1932-2011) and actor Richard Burton (1925-1984) began one of the most publicized and turbulent love stories of all time, captivating millions with their on-again, off-again relationship. Despite the drama, they shared a love that was deep and fierce, the kind of love that can often be as destructive as it is beautiful. According to TIME, Burton admitted he was making movies due to his desire for money, not a love for the art. However, he thought quite highly of his talented wife. He once wrote, "You are probably the best actress in the world, which, combined with your extraordinary beauty, makes you unique. When, as an actress, you want to be funny, you are funnier than W.C. Fields; when, as an actress, you are meant to be tragic, you are, tragic."
We recommend this watch is professionally serviced before wearing, which we can undertake if required. Over the decades we have sold many watches, of course, mostly of a military nature, but we have never seen another watch so beautiful as this. A true work of the finest object d'art, as well as a piece of useful and functional jewellery. It will be accompanied with a signed statement from Mark Hawkins detailing its full story, but sadly there is no longer any surviving paperwork from Elizabeth Taylor.
However, if one wished for Rolex to create such a fabulous bespoke watch today it would very likely cost up to a million pounds.
We offer it set within a fine Cartier watch box .

Another photo in the gallery is of Elizabeth's other 'Mystery Watch' by Bulgari, which she was photographed wearing on the set of Cleopatra. It sold in 2011 for $974,500.

The bespoke watch case and bracelet of our watch was likely originally custom made for Elizabeth by an exclusive, finest Parisian or Swiss jeweller, such as, for example, Van Cleef & Arpels or Boucheron, and was then fitted with its fold-out ‘hidden’ Rolex movement.

The watch is an amazing 10.5 inches long x 1.4 inches wide at the buckle, and it weighs over 4 ounces {130.8 grams}. It bears a Swiss .750 18ct hallmark and contains 24 diamonds and 40 rubies.

Every single item from The Lanes Armoury is accompanied by our unique Certificate of Authenticity. Part of our continued dedication to maintain the standards forged by us over the past 100 years of our family’s trading  read more

Code: 22793

A Rare Aeronautical Medal, Dated 1912, Of The Zeppelin Z3 {AKA LZ12}, Count von Zeppelin Friedrichshafen to Hamburg Flight. Showing The Flight Over The Bismark Memorial

Original, 40.5mm scarce zinc medal of the 1912 flight of the zeppelin Z3 {also known as the LZ12} over Hamburg. The airship is shown sailing over the Bismark Memorial with the city view in background. Another, the more common bronze version sold in the Dr. Kallir auction for $360 in 1999.

Another example in the National Air and Space Museum, Smithsonian Institution.

Medal, Count von Zeppelin Friedrichshafen to Hamburg Flight Commemorative Medal of Count von Zeppelin's Friedrichshafen to Hamburg Flight; Obverse: relief profile bust of von Zeppelin depicted, embossed text "GRAF FERDINAND VON ZEPPELIN"; Reverse: relief of a Zeppelin airship over Hamburg cityscape depicted, embossed text "FRIEDRICHSHAFEN - HAMBURG 700 KoM. IN 10 STUNDEN 31 5.19.1912".  read more

Code: 25601

A Very Rare, Near Mint Condition Aeronautical Table Medal for The Graf Zeppelin LZ 4 Dirigible Test Flight To Strasbourg. Hallmarked Silver, {990} Plaque. Dated August 4th 5th 1908, For The Crew Of The Zeppelin That Exploded On Its Test Flight. By Lauer

Graf Zeppelin LZ 4 Dirigible 2 day Test Flight to Strasbourg Silver medal plaque August 1908. Hallmarked 990 silver on the edge, and maker marked by Ludwig Christian Lauer within the frontal design.

Silver plaque medal for presentation of the flight, but the flight was interrupted by several serious issues, which grounded the Zeppelin mid flight, but whereupon it was blown from its mooring, caught fire, and exploded.

The trial flight finally started on 4 August 1908, when the LZ 4 lifted off at 06:22 in the morning, carrying 12 people and sufficient fuel for 31 hours of flight. The flight to Zürich had excited considerable public interest, and large crowds gathered along the route to witness the flight, which took it over Konstanz, Schaffhausen, Basel and Strasbourg. Shortly after passing Strasbourg the forward engine had to be stopped since the fuel tank in the engine gondola had been exhausted, and needed to be refilled. At this point the airship was flying light due to the heat of the sun having caused the hydrogen to expand, and was being held at a low altitude by dynamic downforce generated by flying in a nose-down attitude: with the loss of the power of one engine, it rose to an altitude of 820 m (2,690 ft), venting gas from the relief valves as it did so. At 1:58 p.m the aft engine had to be stopped for refuelling: this time the airship rose to 884 m (2,900 ft), with a further loss of hydrogen. Two further engine stoppages caused further loss of gas: by now LZ 4 was only being kept in the air by dynamic lift generated by flying with a nose-up attitude, the resultant drag reducing its speed to 16 km/h (9.9 mph), and at 5:24 pm a landing was made on the Rhine near Oppenheim, 23 kilometres (14 mi) short of Mainz. All superfluous items and five crew members were unloaded, and the flight was resumed at 10:20. Mainz was reached half an hour later, and the ship turned to begin its return journey. Further engine problems followed: a crank bearing in the forward engine melted at 1:27 am, reducing airspeed to about 32 km/h (20 mph) and it was decided to land to have the engine repaired by engineers from the Daimler works at Untertürkheim. Accordingly, LZ 4 was set down at 7:51 am at Echterdingen.

The airship was tethered and engineers removed the forward engine to make repairs, but during the afternoon LZ 4 was torn from its moorings by a gust of wind. The soldiers present as a ground handling party could not hold it down, but it was brought to earth by a crew member who had remained on board. Unfortunately, the ship came into contact with a half-dead pear tree while landing, which damaged some of the gasbags, and it immediately caught fire. The cause of ignition was later ascribed to a static charge being produced when the rubberised cotton of the gasbags was torn.

The disaster took place in front of an estimated 40 to 50 thousand spectators and produced an extraordinary wave of nationalistic support for Zeppelin's work. Unsolicited donations from the public poured in: enough had been received within 24 hours to rebuild the airship, and the eventual total was over 6 million marks were donated, at last providing Zeppelin with a sound financial base for his experiments.

Made by Ludwig Christian Lauer was a medal maker in Nuremberg, Germany. He began his business in 1848. He expanded his business and in 1860 renamed it ‘coin mint L. Chr. Lauer’. He died in 1873 and the company continued under the supervision of his wife and three sons.
He was a leading 19th-century German manufacturer of medals

55mm x 36mm, 43 grams of 990 silver  read more

Code: 25602

8th Punjab Indian Army Regt. Officer's Cap Badge

Single pin mount. The 8th Punjab Regiment had its origins in the Madras Army, where its first battalion was raised at Masulipatam in 1798. Four more battalions were raised in 1799-1800. In 1824, they were designated as the 29th, 30th, 31st, 32nd and 33rd Regiments of Madras Native Infantry. In the early 19th century, these battalions were engaged in fighting the Marathas and took part in a number of foreign expeditions including the Anglo-Burmese Wars. Between 1890 and 1893, they were reconstituted with Punjabi Muslims and Sikhs as Burma Battalions and permanently based in Burma to police the turbulent Burmese hill tracts. Under the Kitchener Reforms of 1903, they were redesignated as the 89th, 90th, 91st, 92nd Punjabis, and 93rd Burma Infantry. They were delocalized from Burma before the First World War The 8th Punjabis have a most distinguished record of service during the First World War. Their long list of honours and awards includes the Victoria Cross awarded to Naik Shahmed Khan of 89th Punjabis in 1916. The 89th Punjabis had the unique distinction of serving in more theatres of war than any other unit of the British Empire. These included Aden, where they carried out the first opposed sea-borne assault landing in modern warfare, Egypt, Gallipoli, France, Mesopotamia, North-West Frontier Province, Salonika and Russian Transcaucasia. All battalions served in Mesopotamia, while 93rd Burma Infantry also served in France. The 92nd Punjabis were made 'Prince of Wales's Own' in 1921 for their gallantry and sacrifices during the war During the Second World War the 8th Punjab Regiment again distinguished itself, suffering more than 4500 casualties. It was awarded two Victoria Crosses to Havildar Parkash Singh and Sepoy Kamal Ram, besides numerous other gallantry awards. The regiment raised a further nine battalions. Two of its battalions, the 1st and 7th, were captured on Singapore Island, when the British Commonwealth Army surrendered there to the Japanese on 15 February 1942. Four battalions fought in the Burma Campaign, while others saw service in Iraq, Iran, Italy, French Indochina and the Dutch East Indies. Two men from the 8th Punjab Regiment received the Victoria Cross: Havildar Parkash Singh in Burma and Sepoy Kamal Ram in Italy. By the end of the war, the Regiment consisted of 14 Battalions.  read more

Code: 19938

Royal Scottish Clan Glengarry Badge 'In Defence' Lion Rampant, Gilt

WW1 period. A very nice Glengarry badge of the Scottish Royal crest. The glengarry bonnet is a traditional Scots cap made of thick-milled woollen material, decorated with a toorie on top, frequently a rosette cockade on the left side, and with ribbons hanging down behind. It is normally worn as part of Scottish military or civilian Highland dress, either formal or informal, as an alternative to the Balmoral bonnet or tam o' shanter. The Royal Regiment of Scotland wears the glengarry with diced band and black cock feathers as its ceremonial headdress. Traditionally, the Glengarry bonnet is said to have first appeared as the head dress of the Glengarry Fencibles when they were formed in 1794 by Alexander Ranaldson MacDonell of Glengarry, of Clan MacDonell of Glengarry. MacDonell, therefore, is sometimes said to have invented the glengarry - but it is not clear whether early pictures of civilians or fencible infantry show a true glengarry, capable of being folded flat, or the standard military bonnet of the period merely 'cocked' into a more 'fore-and-aft' shape. The first use of the classic, military glengarry may not have been until 1841, when it is said to have been introduced for the pipers of the 79th Foot by the commanding officer, Lieutenant Colonel Lauderdale Maule.

It was only in the 1850s that the glengarry became characteristic undress headgear of the Scottish regiments of the British Army. By 1860, the glengarry without a diced border and usually with a feather had been adopted by pipers in all regiments except the 42nd (Black Watch), whose pipers wore the full dress feather bonnet. In 1914, all Scottish infantry regiments were wearing dark blue glengarries in non-ceremonial orders of dress, except for the Cameronians (Scottish Rifles) who wore them in rifle green, and the Scots Guards, who wore peaked forage caps or khaki service dress caps. 2.25 inches high  read more

Code: 21054

Part of a Superb WW1 Machine Gunner's Collection, British and German. An Incredibly Rare WW1 German Machine Gunners Abteilung Marked Utility and Combat Axe and Cradle Leather Belt Holster Regimentally Marked

steel axe head stamped with standing lion makers mark and “G. LEWELT”, waved wooden haft. Housed in brown leather cradle with stud fittings, stamped to the inside “1 M.G.A” 1st Maschinengewehr Abteilung and the axe block with “BA II 1917” Issued to Bekleidungsamt Armee Korps Stettin. Split to leather by brass stud. Used by the machinegunner to cut down trees or wood that thus enabled a machine gun to be placed at its best advantage point, preferably concealed by wood or thicket. It was also the perfect trench warfare close combat weapon. The German army had been a late convert to the potential of machine guns, but its tactical employment of them in 1914 proved superior to that of its enemies. German machine gunners exploited the weapon’s long-range accuracy, and the fact that the guns were a regimental (rather than battalion) asset allowed them to be grouped to achieve maximum effect. This efficiency created a myth that Germany deployed far more machine guns than its opponents in 1914.

Following the onset of positional warfare, machine guns gained notoriety as highly effective direct-fire weapons. They could theoretically fire over 500 rounds per minute (rpm), but this was not normal in combat, where "rapid fire" generally consisted of repeated bursts amounting to 250 rpm. The effectiveness of these bursts of between ten and fifty bullets was enhanced by exploitation of ballistics and the precision offered by firing from adjustable mounts. At ranges of 600 metres or less, machine guns could create fixed lines of fire which would never rise higher than a man's head, with deadly results for those attempting to advance across them. Or the gun could be traversed between bursts to offer what the French called feu fauchant (mowing fire). At longer range, their bullets fell in an elliptical "beaten-zone", giving them an area-fire capability.

Groups of guns could interlock their fire. In favourable circumstances, such as at Loos on 26 September 1915, or on the Somme on 1 July 1916, this could prove devastating. But although this is how machine guns are now best remembered, new methods of using them were developed from 1915 onwards.

Every item is accompanied with our unique, Certificate of Authenticity. Of course any certificate of authenticity, given by even the best specialist dealers, in any field, all around the world, is simply a piece of paper,…however, ours is backed up with the fact we are the largest dealers of our kind in the world, with over 100 years and four generation’s of professional trading experience behind us  read more

Code: 23343